Troop 1772 Trek 20

We got home from Philmont yesterday and I thought that I would let you know how our trek went. Ours was also quite a trek and adventure for everyone. Everyone in the crew got along great and the crew worked together in the backcountry really well.

First, I am pleased to say that "We All Made It" from start to finish on this Trek, which was no easy accomplishment, as we had a fair share of blisters and tired feet among the Crew. To the pride of the Crew, each man continued the trek so the Crew could complete the Trek as a whole Crew. No man gave up, and that is a strength each man will always be able to drawn on when something gets tough. For the record, and to congratulate each Crewmember, all Crewmembers are listed below:

It was a two-day drive from The Woodlands, Texas to Cimarron, New Mexico, home of Philmont Scout Ranch. We rented a 15-passenger van and took out the last seat for packs and gear. We spent the first night in Lubbock, Texas at a Catholic Church school and got into Philmont the next afternoon about 3:00 PM the day before our trek was scheduled to start. We were lucky to be able to spend the night in base camp in the homebound canvas tents so we could start getting acclimated to the altitude. We went down to the Kit Carson museum for the 4 PM tour and then drove into Cimarron to eat a last "real food" dinner at Hecks.

The terrain we covered on trek 20 varied both in beauty, harshness and difficulty everyday, with many an altitude change. Philmont Base Camp, where we pretty much started from, sits at about 6,600 feet, whereas, our highest climb was to Mt. Baldy 12,441 feet, followed by The Tooth of Time at 9,003 feet. Believe me, when I tell you that there are a lot of huge ups and downs at Philmont! We ended up hiking over 77 miles!

Philmont is certainly a beautiful place with its magnificent views, mountains, streams and abundant animal life (many a deer came right through our camps), to include lots of bears (we saw three). It is also a place that if not prepared, that you could get into big trouble. To further help prepare us and to ensure we were ready for the back country, Philmont assigned a Philmont Ranger to us for three days to make sure we learned Philmont's ways of doing things and that we were up to the task. We started check in the first official day at 8:00 AM and meet our ranger - Mike. He was from St. Louis area and it was his first year as a ranger at Philmont. He really enjoyed or crew t-shirt we gave him and said it was the first one a crew had given him. We went through the office, logistics, health lodge checks, and official photo before lunch. That afternoon we went to get our crew gear and food and do a shakedown on personal gear. We had a little free time in the afternoon for the trading post and went to dinner, church services and the opening campfire. We had an 8:00 AM bus to catch tomorrow.

Day One - McBride Canyon trail camp (7,040 ft) – hiked 3 miles

- Woke up early at 5:30 AM for showers and sunrise and "last meal" at base camp.

- We had a 8 AM bus to the drop off point at Six Mile Gate for a three mile hike to McBride Canyon camp, When we got to the Six Mile Gate there was a returning group coming off the trail, man they looked beat, I wasn't sure if we would be looking like them in a few days.

- We did a final bit of ranger training before we hit the trail. Several mini-bears came out to check us out.

- The trail followed Ponil creek on the left side of the road, a few pretty steep places where we had to scramble up hillside and back down. After you cross the road you entered McBride Canyon for the final mile and a half to the camp. This area of Philmont recently had a forest fires that started (by lightening) on 28 May 2001. The trail becomes steep and rocky till we hit a freshly cut bulldozer firebreak road that continued on to the camp.

- McBride Canyon camp was a simple camp (7-8 sites) with a well and stock tank for water.

- Lunch at 11:30.

- Ranger training with Mike - everything from latrines to map reading and medical procedures.

- Side hike for some of the crew to the top of a ridge beside the trail.

- Mike cooked dinner for the crew (added too much water and main course was more of a soup than a meal).

- Began Thorns and Roses and Buds (excellent concept to talk about the good things (Roses), the bad things (Thorns) and hopes for the future (Buds) that help a Crew share the goods, bads, and hopes that will make the Crew that much better and stronger each day. This is a worthwhile exercise and can solve a lot of problems before they get out of hand).

Day Two - Ponil staff camp (7,200 ft) – hiked 6.5 miles

- Woke up at 5:45 AM and out of camp at 7:45.

- We started out immediately on a very steep uphill bulldozer trail/road for 1/2 mile. It was a killer uphill. There are lots of new bulldozer trails/roads all over this area because of the fires. This was first real climb and most were huffing and puffing as not use to the thinner air, or something like that.

- Saw a Horn Toad on the trail (The first one I have seen in a very long time, they are endangered and pretty rare in Texas these days).

- At first trail intersection (where McBride Canyon trail meets the trail from Indian Writings) we did map work and decided which trail to take to get to Ponil.

- Saw our first bear about a 1/4 mile past the intersection on the trail to Ponil, he was a small bear about 75 feet downhill of us, we got some really good photos of him digging for food. We watched him for several minutes while two other crews walked up and got a chance to see him also.

- We continued hiking up the switchback trail toward Hart Peak; at the top we made our first mistake (turned left). We hiked past the summit of Hart Peak (large cluster of boulders and rocks) and continued on down the bulldozer road and then started going downhill. The ranger had never been on the trail or in this part of Philmont. We ended up almost back (within about 3/4 of a mile) of where we originally started. By this time we were getting low on water and were having a difficult time hiking. The crew got out the map and compass and worked out three routes to Ponil. After discussion we decided to hike back up the bulldozer trail to Hart Peak.

- We ate lunch on the summit of Hart Peak (excellent view of Baldy). We hiked past the switchback trail from Indian Writings a few hundred feet to rocky trail that lead downhill to Ponil. As you got closer you could smell the horses/burros from a long way off. We got into Ponil about 3:00 PM.

- Everyone was dehydrated and filled up and drank two-three quarts of water immediately. The water at Ponil had a slight Methane taste to it.

- Crew leader checked in at staff headquarters and got our campsite assignment. Ponil is Philmont’s original camp and is located in a large canyon. Crew’s pickup burros at Ponil. There are a lot of crews in Ponil. Ponil creek runs through the center of the canyon.

- An organized western lore program is offered at Ponil. Horse riding, campfires, and branding are all part of the western lore program. Philmont cowboys will tell you about New Mexico's cattle industry. Using authentic western lariats, they will show you how to rope

- Did our final ranger training with Mike.

- Ponil Cantina, bought root beer on tap for everyone, but despite the rubber hose taste, it was still good.

- Ponil trading post had most of the usual items and we were able to get some parts to repair the pump valve on Art’s stove. Bought a postcard and mailed it home.

- Chuck wagon dinner (scouts cooked) - beef stew, biscuits, peaches. Mike provided a better dessert.

- Scouts played horseshoes and tried roping cattle.

- Advisors coffee was good.

- Thorns & Roses.

- Showers (Adults).

Day Three - Rich Cabins staff camp (7,793 ft) – hiked 6 miles

- Woke up at 5:45 AM.

- Chuck wagon breakfast (Advisors cooked and cleaned up) - Pancakes, sausage, hot chocolate.

- 8:00 AM Horse rides for the scouts in the crew (200 lb weight limit).

- Branded hiking boots. Ponil uses a propane torch to heat up the branding irons; there will be another chance to brand items at Clarks Fork on Day 10.

- Fixed the pump on one of our stoves while the scouts did their horseback ride.

- 11:00 AM left Ponil for Rich Cabins.

- Pretty easy hike up the road in a meadow to Rich Cabins. We stopped for lunch at Bent Camp (7,230 ft) in the shade beside Ponil creek. You will cross Ponil creek several times and pass into the Valle wilderness area. Watch out for sunburn because you are in the open almost the entire hike.

- When we got to Rich Cabins we saw our second bear. It was outside the barbwire fence in the meadow just outside of the camp, several hundred feet away but easily 250-400 pounds.

- 3:30 PM checked into Rich Cabins, food pickup (no fruit, the earlier crews got it all).

- Rich Cabins is a "leave no trace" camp. Water source was Ponil creek.

- Advisors coffee on the porch. One of the backcountry staffers played fiddle and told jokes/stories.

- Homesteading program for the scouts, milked a cow, feed burro, pigs and sheep, chased chickens. The scouts had a lot of fun.

- Rich Cabins had a newborn burro (born at 3 AM the previous night); it was all ears and legs.

- A bear had attacked one on the pigs at Rich Cabins on July 4th; he was at the vets recovering.

- Thorns & Roses.

- 9:00 PM bed.

Day Four - Greenwood Canyon trail camp (8,300 ft) – hiked 6.25 miles

- Woke up at 6:15 AM and was out of camp by 8:00 AM.

- It’s a very pretty and easy hike to get from Rich Cabins - Greenwood since you just follow a trail along Ponil creek. Turn left at the sign with cow skull into Greenwood Canyon.

- Hiked about 30 minutes to the far (west) end of Greenwood Canyon and set up camp and ate lunch.

- Scouts played/fished in the creek and caught a rainbow trout.

- Watched a snake catch a small rainbow trout, the boys watched him eat it.

- Washed cloths and had the afternoon to rest and unwind (we would need it the next day).

- Greenwood Canyon is a "leave no trace" camp. Water source was the creek.

- Thorns & Roses.

- Went to bed early (it was cold and the warm sleeping bags made sense).

Day Five - Copper Park trail camp (10,500 ft) – hiked 7.75 miles

- Got up early and headed out at 7:30 AM to Copper Park

- At the west end of Greenwood canyon there was a sign that pointed to Copper Park. You will have a very long uphill climb on the old forest service road once you leave Greenwood canyon. Those forest roads can be confusing but if you look you could see rock cairns along the trail. Some of the side roads had three logs laid across them as a sign to block that path. You will have to read your map & your roads carefully to be sure you stay on the right one.

- There is no water source after you get out of the canyon.

- Meet several crews going the other way.

- Lunch on a switchback going uphill on the trail.

- There were a lot of switchbacks and fallen trees to cross as we neared the summit.

- Finally reached the summit (11,000 ft) overlooking Cooper Park and could see Baldy Mountain (that summit was the best looking section of flat ground I ever saw, several other crews had written messages in the dirt).

- A rock cairn marks the trail down from the summit to Copper Park is very steep downhill that at time went straight down. It is very slippery and dangerous, everyone had to grab onto trees to keep from falling (took 1 hour to get to Copper Park).

- Into Copper Park at about 5 PM, found a campsite and started fixing dinner.

- There are several water taps in the campground area.

- Started raining after dinner and in bed by 7:30 PM (every one was totally beat after the hike we had today).

- This day was one of the toughest hikes we made on the entire trek.

Day Six - Copper Park trail camp – Mt. Baldy/Baldy Town/French Henry – hiked 7.75 miles

- Got up early (4:30 AM) and headed out at 6:30 AM to Baldy.

- Hiked the long, hard trail up the backside of Mount Baldy (almost 2,000 feet in 1.75 miles over very loose and rocky ground - Baldy is barren but of rocks as well above the frost line).

- Got to the top of Baldy (12,441 ft) about 9:00 AM (first crew on top!).

- 45 deg F and 30 mile per hour winds at the top.

- Everyone made it!

- We had a church service on the top of Baldy.

- Great views and took lots of pictures.

- Slept for 1 hour in the sun (it felt better than lying on the beach in the summer).

- Sliding down the rocks on the way back to Copper Park.

- There is a spring in the rocks just above the tree line on the way back down (It was the best tasting water we drank in backcountry).

- Saw our third bear at the bottom of the slide area on the way down, large 250-300 pounds

- Lunch once we got back to Copper Park.

- 1/2 of the crew hiked to Baldy Town (10,000 ft) for food pickup and showers (of course we sweated up again making the climb back to camp loaded down with three days rations for 8 men)

- The others hiked to gold mine and took tour (went in a horizontal mine shaft for almost 500 feet, "tough on tall guys").

- "Mucking"...hiking back out without lights (thank goodness for hardhats).

- Gold panning and Blacksmithing (made "S" hook) at French Henry.

- Hiked the "wall," coming back from French Henry (9,600 ft) - very difficult. (This was almost a 900 vertical foot climb in less that one mile over a rocky trail. A lot of wind sucking for sure).

- Apples!!!!

- Saw a few mule deer, rabbits and turkeys in the meadow below Copper Park.

- Thorns & Roses.

Day Seven - Head of Dean staff camp (8,800 ft) –hiked 6.5 miles

- My shoulder strap on the pack broke as we were leaving Cooper Park (was able to tie it to frame).

- Saw an Aspen that had been freshly clawed by a bear along the trail.

- Hiked again through Baldy Town (showers for those of us that went to French Henry).

- Left Baldy Town at 10:00 PM.

- Passed by Ewells Park trail camp (9,400 ft), there is a spring there for water refills.

- Lunch on Baldy Skyline trail at the "time awaits you in these hills" sign/intersection.

- Finished hiking to Head of Dean at 2:00 PM (got caught in an afternoon shower while on the last ridge to camp).

- Rain canceled the Challenge program and conservation project but they talked to us about TSI and trail building to give us credit for it.

- Played basketball and stump ball.

- Minibears were all over our campsite.

- Rain stopped by 3:30 PM, long enough for us to get dinner then into the tents.

- Potable Water source was several taps in the camp and beside the cabin.

- Advisors coffee at Head of Dean was really good.

- Thorns & Roses.

- It rained most of the night (lots of lightning and thunder).

- Lots of deer in camp the next morning.

Day Eight -Turkey Creek trail camp (7,240 ft)– hiked 8.25 miles

- Woke up early 5:45 AM and out of camp at 6:45 AM.

- Steady pace out of Head of Dean down to New Dean camp (7,720 ft).

- Saw several turkeys (3 or 4) as we passed through Upper Dean Camp (8,240 ft).

- Filled up water bottles at New Dean Camp at the well and stock tank (must be treated). This trail camp is just before starting an uphill climb to Black Jack camp (8,080 ft), which is the only water along the whole hike that day until you get to Turkey Creek.

- Long uphill climb toward Black Jack camp in the open sun, had lunch under a tree on a ridgeline.

- Into Turkey Creek Camp by 3:00 PM. There are two large open campsites.

- Turkey Creek is isolated in a canyon and appeared to have been an old cattle station. There were pieces of old bones, antiques, sheet metal, cans, bottles, and what looked like old water well drilling equipment found in the camp area.

- The water source is a pond (which had 4 eyed tadpoles and lots of strange looking fish) and must be filtered or use Polar Pure (clogs the filters quickly). It was the worst tasting water we had on the trek.

- Visited with our sister crew that evening to discuss the next day’s hike to Hunting Lodge.

- Turkey Creek is a "leave no trace" camp.

- Several people with multiple blisters plus it was a very hot, dry day.

- Thorns & Roses.

- Bed early 7:30 PM, we of use were all bushed.

Day Nine - Hunting Lodge Staff Camp (7,760 ft) – hiked 15.5 miles (12 hours of hiking)

- Up at 5:00 AM, out of camp by 6:30, breakfast on the trail at 7:30 AM.

- At the Cimarron river (7,200 ft) at 8:30 AM, filled water bottles (not the best place to get water because of pollution and such, after treating it with PolarPure it still had a clay taste).

- Made a mistake and went down an unmarked 4WD road off the trail to Vaca Camp near a meadow, realized mistake and hiked back 1/4 mile.

- Vaca Camp (7,620 ft) has well water. Vaca is Spanish for "cow". It is relatively close to Harlan. A new hiking trail has been completed by the Order of the Arrow trail crew that is a tremendous improvement over the old trail.

- Lunch under the trees on the west side of Vaca Lake (large pond in meadow).

- Stopped to refill water bottles at Ute Springs camp (7,760 ft).

- Saw several bear tracks in the mud on the road to the Ute Gulch Commissary.

- 4:00 PM at Ute Gulch (8,080 ft) Commissary/Trading Post. Staff at commissary was having a good time with all crews spraying them with water and tossing out extra fruit to who could catch it. They were also offering to deliver a case of ice-cold soft drinks to your campsite for $100.

- Lots of Oranges and Apples!!!!!

- Several scouts did food challenges for extra lunches (4 packs of Swiss Miss without any water in 3 minutes, powder was flying out their noses).

- Potable water at Ute Gulch was treated with bleach (over treated actually).

- Hiked the trail up through Grouse Canyon to Cimmaroncito, Lots of massive rocks.

- Passed through Cimmaroncito staff camp (8,140 ft) too late in the day to do any rock climbing.

- Walked beside a grouse on the trail (three feet away, no fear at all of hungry scouts).

- Got into Hunting Lodge by 6:30 PM, the staff there was extra nice and put us into a close campsite and even brought us hot water from their kitchen, which helped to speed up our dinner tremendously. They also held back the start of the evening’s program so that our guys could make it there. The program was excellent.

- Potable water source at Hunting Lodge.

- Hunting Lodge program at 8:20 PM rain and wind was starting

- 9:00 PM in bed (everyone was asleep in 5 minutes)

Day Ten - Tooth of Time trail camp (8,280 ft)–hiked 7.5 miles

- Slept in till 7:00 AM.

- Hiked past Cathedral Rock (7,600 ft) on the way to Clarks Fork, it was beautiful sight.

- Stopped at Clarks Fork staff camp (7,520 ft) to rest on the porch and get a cold drink of water.

- Clarks Fork is a lot like Ponil but they use a campfire to heat up the branding irons. The staff did a great job demonstration branding and almost all of the others crew members branded something.

- Lunch on the trail at 1:20 PM followed by short naps

- Long difficult hike up the ridge to Shaffers Park (8,787 ft), refilled water bottles at spring and started again hiking in the afternoon sun.

- Hiking on the ridge above an airplane flying in the valley below.

- Rocky trail along the ridge, very slow going.

- Into Tooth Ridge Camp at 6:30 PM, everyone was beat.

- Beautiful campsite with views of sunrise and sunset over base camp.

- Thorns & Roses.

- Lots of sore feet and several scouts with bad blisters.

Day Eleven - Base Camp –hiked 3.25 miles

- Sunrise at camp and had a church service before heading down Tooth Ridge.

- Very overcast day, not much sun (made it much easier coming off the ridge).

- Left camp 8:15 AM and crossed over into base camp at 10:30 AM.

- It took over one hour from when you saw base camp until you hike into it.

- Photos at the "You Made It" sign.

- Showers (the water actually hurt my face) and tents with cots (after sleeping on the ground for ten days!).

- Lunch at the Dining Hall, salad never tasted better and the milk was so cold!!!!

- Returned all crew gear and tents, checked the post office for mail, and went to trading post.

- Checked at the Health lodge - I had lost 15 pounds on the trail.

- 4:00 PM tour of the Villa (really neat, wish my house was like his, Steven Duncan played classical music on Waite Phillip's custom made piano). The elaborate Villa Philmonte ranch home, built by oil magnate Waite Phillips between 1922 and 1927. Modeled after buildings Phillips and his wife saw on their frequent Mediterranean cruises, and decorated mostly with furniture they bought in Europe, Villa Philmonte is a sprawling hacienda with bear-and cougar-skin rugs, a 16-person dining table with chairs of hand-tooled Moroccan leather, a custom-made piano, and a shower with seven separate showerheads (no way to hog the water in there!).

- Dinner in Cimarron at Heck's (best hamburger, chicken and French dip sandwiches, and fries in a long time).

- OA and Council patch trading with scouts from our sister crew (they were from Minnesota).

- Closing campfire.

- Got arrowhead patches, photographs, and plaque.

- Ice cream for everyone after the campfire.

Day Twelve - Home!

- Breakfast in the Dinning Hall, thank God for Tabasco on the eggs!

- Last minute trading post purchases and goodbyes.

- Left Philmont at 8:45 AM.

- Got to hotel in Abilene Texas at 7:30 PM.

- Chinese buffet for dinner (outstanding food, better than a lot of Chinese restaurants in my local area).

- Swimming in the pool till 11 PM.

Day Thirteen - Home!

- Continual breakfast at hotel.

- Lunch in Waco Texas.

- Back at the church at 3:40 PM.

925 miles each way

Home From Philmont,

JOHN N. WILLIARD

SM, Trek Advisor, 706-S